House of Leaves. The Museum of Secret Surveillance

This museum that tries to convey what it was like for Albanians living under the police state of the Hoxha regime from 1945-1991. It was forbidden to say anything critical of the government - even a comment about the lack of bread on the shelves at the bakery could be enough for someone to arrested. The climate of fear was experienced by everyone and has a big influence today since anyone in Albania today who is over the age of 35 can remember living through it.

It is fascinating to visit, but it makes you think about what it would be like to live in a totalitarian state so it is a somber place.

The Museum of Secret Surveillance is the newest museum in Albania and presents one of the darkest periods of the country’s history. It is located in the building that served as the Central Directorate of the Albanian Secret Police.

Each room of the building highlights a different aspect of how the secret police spied on citizens by phone tapping, bugging homes, opening mail - but also also informers, spies, interrogations and torture. All the surveillance equipment that was used is on display, along with extremely well-done and clear signs (in English as well as Albanian) to explain what you are looking at. There are sections showing clips from propaganda films of the time, as well as videos of people who were interrogated and imprisoned for speaking their thoughts